Local Restaurants

La Nonna Gelsa, Niccone

We feel very lucky to have the wonderful "Nonna Gelsa" just a short drive along the Niccone valley from La Selva.  The restaurant, which is family-run, has a warm and welcoming atmosphere which, coupled with the very well-prepared, traditional Umbrian cuisine, has led us to return again and again. Chiara, eldest daughter and maître d', knows just how to treat her English-speaking guests, not resorting to her (excellent) English to explain the spoken "menu" until it's apparent that her (very clear) Italian is meeting puzzled looks.   The mixed Umbrian antipasto, served on a large platter for everyone to share, is a must.  Freshly prepared pasta is very good - try the Tortelloni alle Noce - and there are a wide range of good choices for main course and dessert which, coupled with Chiara's sense of humour, make for a relaxed and enjoyable lunchtime or evening.

Via Centrale 14, Niccone (PG) - Tel: 075-9410699 (closed Tuesdays)

Organic farm shop, nr Spedalicchio

This cafe and organic farm shop, just a short drive west along the Niccone Valley, is a good place to come for brunch as well as to pick up a some good local ingredients to take back to La Selva. Service is at a relaxed pace - don't come if you're in a hurry - but the feast of home-made sweet and savoury flans, offered buffet style, to go alongside an interesting breakfast menu, are well worth the wait.

La Locanda del Capitano, Montone

"La Locanda" is set in the centre of the beautiful hill-top town of Montone, which sits on the other side of the Tiber Valley from La Selva.  The restaurant, and accompanying small hotel, are located in the restored former home of "local hero" Braccio Fortebraccio, who saved Perugia from invaders in the 12th-century. Host Giancarlo (aka "Il Capitano" to his friends) provides a good venue for a special occasion or more formal celebration with its formal through friendly service and a menu which is a cut above the "standard". Local Umbrian and seasonal specialities are the basis for the menu, with truffles a big feature in the autumn and winter months. Giancarlo keeps a good wine list too, with a broad selection of Umbrian wines as well a powerful Primitivo from his family's vineyard in Puglia.

Via Roma 7, MONTONE (PG) - Tel/Fax: 075-9306521 / 075-9306455

Erbaluna, Montone

Hidden away above the bar on Montone's main square, Erbaluna surprises with an interesting menu and food that exceeds expectations. The dining room has a large picture window that offers a spectacular view from the town walls across the Tiber valley to the hills beyond, whilst the menu offers a selection of antipasti and main courses that go beyond the traditional standards, supported by a varied and interesting wine list.

Piazza Fortebraccio, MONTONE (PG)

La Rocca, Umbertide

On a warm summer's evening this fish restaurant on Umbertide's main square always seems busy.  No doubt this is partly because it offers a pleasant place to eat outdoors in a central location opposite the old town walls, but we think it also has something to do with the range of well-executed traditional fish dishes on offer from the menu. A good place to while away an evening talking and people watching over a relaxed meal and few glasses of vino bianco, followed by a stroll around the old town centre.

Further afield

La Cisterna, Sansepolcro

If you're planning to stop off in Sansepolcro (perhaps on route to or from Forli airport) to see the world-famous Piero della Francescas at the Museo Civico, then consider staying on for lunch or dinner at La Cisterna. Small and cosy, with a richly and interestingly designed interior, La Cisterna offers a menu that is perhaps the most interesting variation on Tuscan cooking we've encountered in the region. On our visit, we tried the red turnip ravioli with pecorino, the marrow soufflé served with king prawns and the maiale arrosto, all excellent.  The owner even treated us to an impromptu olive oil tasting!

Via S. Giuseppe 27, SANSEPOLCRO (AR) - Tel: 0575-740938 (closed Mondays)

Le Logge, Siena

This place is a must if you're planning a trip to Siena whilst you're in Italy.  Le Logge has the best cooking we've come across in its price range, and the interior (an old alimentari) is wonderful.  However, make sure you book ahead (it's usually full for dinner) and reserve a table downstairs or outside, as the upstairs room lacks atmosphere.  Assuming you can get a table, the food, especially pasta, and the wine list are both excellent.   And you can stroll round Il Campo (Siena's stunning main square) for an espresso or prosecco after dinner, too!

Via del Porrione 31, SIENA (SI) - Tel: 0577-48013